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Baby blue eyes – Huahine

September 13th, 2009 · No Comments

From Moorea it was an overnight passage to Huahine, we anchor on the east side inside the reef. Huahine is a lovely place people are very friendly, giving us lots of bananas, coconuts, papaya and even lending us their dogs for our walks.

With Kirsty as our personal dinghy pilot we motor up to the next bay, too shallow for Giselle at points we even have to tilt the dinghy outboard up. The next bay is just as green, the little school hums away with the sound of children having fun. Further up the road we watch a guide feed the blue eyed eels in the stream. They like mackerel best apparently. Further on almost at the end of the village, two little dogs come out to greet us, the owner watches, then comes to chat too, we are concerned that the dogs will follow us, but Hubert says take them, just make sure that they come back with you. The dogs were delighted and led the way! On the return we stopped to chat with Hubert, who has a house here and in Papette, but he prefers here. He grows vanilla in the traditional methods up in the mountains, too far to take us but he does have a friend close to Fare who we could visit. We arrange to meet him in a couple of days on the other side of Huahine at Fare, to visit his friends plantation.

On our way back to Giselle we stop at a pearl farm, this one is in the middle of the lagoon. Visitors are taken to visit it by traditional outrigger canoe with a huge outboard motor on the back. Black pearls of every size shape and colour are for sale. Pearls are big business here, although they are like everyone else in the world feeling the pinch.

Back close to the boat, we anchor the dinghy off the motu and paddle ashore and chat to some folk staying in one of the huts that are rented out. It would be a wonderful place for a holiday if you just wanted peace and quiet. A two minute stroll takes us to the other side of the motu, here the rollers crash on the reef. For the second time today we are joined by some dogs, five large dogs, who although are guard dogs seem quite happy for us to be there.

The following day we sail around to the main town and meet up with Hubert who takes us to his friends vanilla plantation. She grows her vanilla under cover, a black mesh, the French government are keen to promote vanilla growing and give an eighty per cent grant for the set up. Hubert negotiates some pods for us getting a great price. They encourage us to store the fresh pods in brown rum, apparently they will now last for many years. The vanilla pods are soft, unlike the dried wrinkle pods we get at home, and they have a strong scent, I will remember Hubert every time I use the vanilla, he was very generous and kind with other presents he gave us.

Link to photos

Tags: Pacific Leg